UPPER GYMNASIUM
We will now head back along the path back to the crossroads where we entered the site and turn to our left where we are walking along the base of the wall of the Upper Gymnasium, which can be seen in the photo below.
. . .
. . .
There is a stone positioned on the path just up ahead where you can climb up to enter into the Gymnasium, which on the map appears to show one of the original entrances, although there is little actual evidence of this today.
. . .
. . .
The Upper Gymnasium was used to educate the younger boys in the theory behind the various athletic disciplines before they embarked on the physical side. They would then progress on to the Lower Gymnasium once they became young men.
. . .
It is said that the Upper Gymnasium was built in the 4th Century BCE and has been altered considerably over the years.
. . .
In the next picture you can see an arch which is part of the rear wall, and is the most intact part of the Upper Gymnasium. The arch goes into what would have been a long arched corridor and more parts of this can be seen in the next couple of pictures.
. . .
. . .
. . .
. . .
As you make your way to the back right corner of the Upper Gymnasium you get a feel for how large the remaining standing walls are and how impressive this building must have looked.
. . .
. . .
I have read that a small Roman bath was added to the Northwest corner of the Upper Gymnasium complex, somewhere where we are standing at the moment. At some stage it burnt down and was replaced in Byzantium times with a chapel.
. . .
I have probably said this before, but I will say it again, every time you visit make sure to look in all the nooks and crannies, you never know what you will find! Archaeologists had been in and had uncovered some wall plaster.
. . .
. . .
We are now at the far right hand corner of the Upper Gymnasium where you can see what looks like a floor area.
. . .
. . .
We will now make our way back out of the Upper Gymnasium the way we came, back on to the street. We will then turn to our left and continue to the corner of Theatre Street, here you get to see a good view of the outer wall containing the Upper Gymnasium.
. . .
HEROON OF BIAS
Just before we head off down Theatre Street, I just want to pause for a moment and mention this Heroon, which is documented as having been somewhere in this area. I am still trying to find out a bit more about it but this is what I have so far.....
. . .
The Heroon was a single chambered tomb, dating to the time of Christ and was the only tomb from antiquity found in the city, but sadly long-since looted. I have also found reference to a temple being consecrated to Bias called a Teutamium, at this stage I can only assume that they are one of the same.
. . .
It was for Bias, a resident of Priene and one of the Seven Wise Men. More details of Bias can be found in part 1 of my blog http://priene-turkey.blogspot.com/ under 'Notable People'.
. . .
THEATRE STREET
In the photo below, we are standing in front of the wall in the centre of the picture, behind the tree.
. . .
. . .
Again here you can see more evidence of recent Archaeological excavations. The next two photos were taken a eleven months apart with the oldest first followed by the more recent. Here you can see purpose built recesses in the wall and also drainage pipes in the second photo.
. . .
. . .
. . .
As we look across to the wall on the other side of the street as we walk towards the theatre you get another good view of how impressive the walls of the city must have looked when they were all standing. It always amazes me how tightly they managed to get the joints on these hefty pieces of stone.
. . .
. . .
. . .
Here you can see another example of some of the drainage work found around the site. Again I had not see this on other visits, so it must have been recently discovered.
. . .
. . .
We will now carry along Theatre Street and enter the Theatre itself.
. . .
THEATRE
We have entered the Theatre from the entrance in the top left corner of the shot below.
. . .
. . .
The Theatre is said to have been constructed in the 4th Century BCE and is said to be one of the finest examples of a Hellenistic (post classical Greek history), Theatre still in existence. The Theatre itself consisted of a horseshoe shaped area at ground level , made up of pressed earth, just as you can see today, called the Orchestra, where the acting would take place and then in later times where the musicians would sit, hence them being referred to as the Orchestra. The Skene which sits at the back of the Orchestra was originally designed to be a room for changing costumes but later became part of the backdrop for the action being played out.
. . .
. . .
The Theatre has around 50 tiers of seating for 5000 people, this area was known as the Cavea.
. . .
In the beginning 2nd Century BCE a Proskene (a raised acting area) was constructed in front of the Skene. Both floors of this Proskene contained 3 rooms each.
. . .
. . .
. . .
It is said that these stage buildings underwent big changes in the Roman Period and were rebuilt incorporating two side entrances between the stage buildings and the seating areas, known as Paradoes. At the base of the walls supporting the seating, where the Paradoes enter the Theatre on both sides can be seen the remains of square bases of stone. Bronze statues once stood on these bases, sculptured by Cleandrus. They were dedicated to the god of Zeus and the people of Priene.
. . .
The next picture shows the base of a Clepsydra (water clock). Used to allocate time to the performers or speakers as it was also common for the Theatres to be used for mass gatherings of the towns people. When the Clepsydra's water had all drained away, time was up. As yet I have not been able to establish what was placed on top of this base or what it looked like.
. . .
. . .
Around the base of the Cavea can be seen an alter and 5 marble seats, although 1 of them has been removed and only its base remains. These seats were reserved for prominent people on the City Government. There was an inscription found on the back of one of the seats saying "Nisyos, Son of Diplios, who was in charge of Agonothesia, consecrated this throne to Dionysos".
. . .
. . .
. . .
The alter was used for sacrificing animals to Dionysus, God of Wine and Theatre. An inscription was found in connection with the alter stating "We are selling the priesthood of Dionysos Phileas on the following conditions".
. . .
Right, I hope you have taken the opportunity to have a rest while we have been in the Theatre, having your photo taken sitting in one of the marble seats, "is the thing to do"! Because we are about to make our way up the tiers of seats to the grass area at the top to make our climb upto the Temple of Demeter. If you make your way up the first set of steps to your left as you stand with your back to the stage buildings you will see a small dirt pathway winding its way up the mountain side.
. . .
. . .
TEMPLE OF DEMETER AND KORE
It is a long way up here, but you get a great sense of achievement once you reach the temple, one because a lot of visitors never get to see it because of the climb up or be cause they just don't realise that it is here. The other is the spectacular views you get from up here, we are now standing on a terrace, with the steep slopes of the mountain towering above us.
. . .
Demeter is the Greek Goddess of the harvest, presiding over grains, fertility of the earth and the seasons. She was also known as the Goddess who presided over the sanctity of marriage, sacred law and the cycle of life and death. Kore was her daughter with Zeus and was known as the Goddess of vegetation.
. . .
. . .
We are now standing at the entrance to the Temple which would have had two statues either side of the doorway, one in bronze of the Priestess Timonassa and the other in marble of the Priestess Nikesso. Both of these statues can be seen at the Pergamum Museum in Berlin, Germany.
. . .
The centre of the site would have been dominated by a large courtyard. The rubble to the left of the picture is where two small houses were situated.
. . .
. . .
In front of us we can see the remains of a small temple. The temple would have had 2 columned porches with plain Doric columns and 3 doors leading to the bothros (a pit often used for garbage or to give offerings to the underworld), a cellar and small rooms which can be seen to the right of the temple in these pictures.
. . .
. . .
. . .
The next two pictures show what I think is documented as a large sacrificial pit (1.8m square by 2m deep) made of ashlar blocks. Animal blood would be used as offerings to the Goddess and would have been gathered in the sacrificial pit.
. . .
. . .
. . .
Several naked female votive statuettes with their heads fixed directly atop of their legs and holding torches in both hands, were found between the pit and temple. Votives are objects designed as offerings.
. . .
. . .
. . .
Tucked away between some pieces of stone I came across this carved stone showing a cross surrounded by a double circle.
. . .
. . .
. . .
Here you can just make out the columns of the Temple of Athena, peeking out from the tree tops, which helps give you a perspective of just how high up we are.
. . .
. . .
. . .
A small alter was said to have been situated on this side, with a spectacular sight of the valley below.
. . .
. . .
WATER BASIN
Even as we stand admiring the view and appreciating just how high up we are there is still one more part of City above us on a natural plateau.
Above us it is said can be found the site of the Water Basin which collected water, which was then transported down to the City via an aqueduct which passed through the north east city wall, funnelling the water to a series of three settling pools, from these it passed through ceramic pipes to fountains throughout the City. The treatment basins stonework is said to date to the Hellenistic Period and the mortar walls are of Byzantine date.
. . .
We will now make our way back down to the Theatre and across the street to the Byzantine Church.
. . .
BYZANTINE CHURCH
Priene's biggest church the Metropolis Cathedral can be seen across the street from the Theatre, it was built in the 6th Century BCE.
. . .
. . .
. . .
The Church has a 'narthex' (entrance or lobby to the Church) located at the end of the nave, opposite the Church's main alter. Pictured at the bottom of the above picture.
It would have been either an indoor area separated from the nave by a door or screen or an external porch. The Church had three aisles separated by two rows of ten columns each, it is documented that these were robbed from the Upper Gymnasium. I have also read where the flooring in the Church was robbed from the Temple of Athena.
. . .
The next three photos shows part of an 'ambo' or 'pulpit'.
. . .
. . .
Even now the carving on the pulpit looks impressive, I would love to have seen it at its prime.
. . .
. . .
. . .
. . .
The Altar would have been separated from the Church by the Chancel Screen, part of which can be seen in the next photo.
. . .
. . .
If we now exit the Church from the Altar end we will make our way to the second area of housing to be found in Priene. Again this is another area that most visitors don't get to see, ok it is not a very exciting part of the site, but it is tucked down in a bit of a dip so it does give you an appreciation of how the City is made up of terraces.
. . .
THEATRE STREET Continued
As soon as you walk down the small steps to the lower terrace you will already see how different this area of housing looks from the other side. For a start there is no impressive looking street running down the middle, just small pathways and no drainage channels.
. . .
. . .
. . .
One thing you can see over this side are several doorways, some of them have pillars either side, but whether these should be here, or whether they have been placed here during some of the earlier excavations, I am not sure.
. . .
. . .
. . .
Could this be a pedestal to a wash basin?
. . .
. . .
Seeing how vivid the colour is on this piece of wall plaster gives you a real sense of how colourful the walls must have been when freshly painted.
. . .
. . .
Here you can see another substantial piece of wall.
. . .
. . .
. . .
Could this be a type of sink, there appears to be a hole where the water would have entered at the top and a drainage hole in the corner?
. . .
. . .
I have read that Priene has several fountains dotted around the City because of the advanced water system that it had, could this be part of one?
. . .
. . .
Here you can see some more carved text. The holes in the top of the stone look like it could have been the base for a statue.
. . .
. . .
FLORA AND FAUNA
We will stop again for a short while and have a look at some more of the flora and fauna. This is quite an impressive looking mushroom, I am not an expert on mushrooms so have no idea what it is, but I would not like to eat it!!
. . .
. . .
Even some of the green weeds make good photos with their structural looks.
. . .
. . .
I took a photo of these bulb like plants in winter, I really must try and remember to look out for them in spring or summer, as they look like they are going to have a flower.
. . .
. . .
Just because we are taking photos of ruins doesn't mean to say that you don't get the chance to get some arty shots of the flora and fauna, these are always an added bonus.
. . .
. . .
. . .
. . .
. . .
SANCTUARY TO EGYPTIAN GODS
As you walk back down Theatre Street towards the Sanctuary To Egyptian Gods the first thing you see is a lot of stone laying around.
. . .
I have read where this Sanctuary was built by the Ptolemies, these were the final dynasty of Egyptian Pharaohs. I wondered where they fit into the history of Priene, the only reference I have found so far is that a man named Antiochus who was a Ptolemaic official was in Priene for a time due to a dispute with the Greek Island of Samos located just off the coast, over some land some time during the 3rd Century BCE.
. . .
Inscriptions have been found naming Isis, Sarapis and Anubis as some the gods being worshipped. There have also been found some fragmented inscriptions detailing cult law and festivals.
. . .
. . .
. . .
Here you can see where some more excavation works have been carried out in the area of the Sanctuary to Egyptian Gods.
. . .
. . .
Now the question I find myself asking is "does this wall go down below ground or are we not standing on a true ground level, but one that has been made up over time?"
. . .
. . .
Again here you can see the tight joints between the blocks and unusually the blocks are a variety of different sizes and some are quite small. Does this suggest a much later wall?
. . .
. . .
Here you can see a variety of pieces of roof tile, and drainage pipe that have been unearthed from the excavation.
. . .
. . .
Here you can see a length of pipework that has been unearthed.
. . .
. . .
We will now head back down the street past the Upper Gymnasium until we come to the cross roads where we first entered the site, with the main notice board, and head back down the steps. Here we will now turn to our left down East Gate Street and head down towards the Main Gate.
. . .
. . .
MAIN GATE (OSTTHOR)
We now come to the Main Gate, which always amazes me as it is on one of the narrowest steepest roads on the site. This Gate had a stone tower on each side connected with a vaulted arch.
. . .
. . .
If you look carefully down at the road beneath your feet you can make out what appear to be cart wheel tracks worn into the stone.
. . .
Just beyond the gate on the outside of the city you can see a couple of strange arched structures, I am still trying to find out what these are.
. . .
. . .
. . .
And that is it, we are now back at the car park. I do hope you have enjoyed our walk. Please keep an eye on these blogs as we will continue to return and I hope to discover more to photograph and more information to add about the site. But for now have a safe journey home. xx